Supper Club – Chef Pink

This was my second time attending a supper club hosted by Red Star and La Tour. And as a first, Pink was the guest chef. This excited me to no end, as I loved her food when she was at Square One (RIP). Her commitment to the farm-to-table approach to food resonates well with me, and she’s so fun and approachable as well.

I didn’t take any photos. This time, I wanted to fully enjoy the experience.

The event took place in Al’s funkzone loft on Helena Street, a large industrial space tastefully designed with local art. This evening’s dinner was set on two round tables, each seating 8 people. Decorating the diagonal space adjacent the tables were flickering fires which added a feeling of warmth to the room.

As with other dinners, we started the evening with a glass of sparkling pinot in vintage-style champagne glasses. We got to mingle upstairs and make introductions. When we sat down for our meal, this was the awesomeness presented to us.

First: Bacon brioche.
About the size of a large cupcake, and served in a brown brioche pattypan. It was soft, sweet, with gently baked bacon slivers.

Second: Jamón Ibérico De Bellota, with crisp albino acorn squash polenta.
The jamon was one of the only items not locally sourced, and this is due to Pink’s love of this particular jamon, the pigs are raised entirely on acorns, hence “de bellota” part of the name, she explained after the dish was served on a generous spoon to be consumed in one large mouthful. It was delicious. The ham was smokey and melty, not too salty.

Third: Shaved fennel, chioga beet, Buddha’s hand, handmade chevre.
Fennel was shaved finely and pickled in champagne vinegar with fennel seeds, beets were vivid red, cooked but firm with its little taproot sitting up like a proud quiff, the citron was candied, and the goat cheese was young and sweet. Pink had milked the goats herself for this cheese! The dish was composed as distinct elements separate on the plate and a delight to eat. *Some* of us licked our plates. Ahem!

Fourth: Potato potage, smoked truffle compote.
Without a doubt, this was the best potato soup I’ve had in my life. We were first served a white bowl with a dollop of the truffle compote at the bottom and told not to touch it yet. Then the crew went round the table with a pitcher to pour out the hot potato soup into each bowl and we stirred it all together. Perhaps some did not stir it completely and the bottom spoonfuls got more of the truffle, so perhaps they were lucky. Either way, this was an amazing soup.

Fifth: Brown butter sable cookie, foie gras, walnuts and pomegranate.
There isn’t much to say about this, the title is sufficient.

Six: Squab with pork belly and prune,“dirty rice,” curly mustard, armangac reduction.
This dish caught everyone by surprise. We were expecting some morsels of perfect squab, or perhaps a breast, instead each of us was served an entire squab, and these were much bigger than ones I’ve seen in the shops. Perhaps cornish game hen size. Really plump and juicy, with two big chunks of pork belly on the side, and rice flavored with the squab liver. It was a good combination of sweet with bitter and all over gamey. It was also such a big portion that most could not finish it. I admit, I took mine home and made a flavorful stock with it.

Seventh: Pumpkin moussaline, spiced chocolate ribbon, ancho-chile anglaise.
A final homage to the Thanksgiving weekend was a pumpkin dessert. Creamy, rich and decadent with a hint of spice from the chiles.

Pink and crew put together this amazing meal using little more than camping stove equipment, a feat in itself. The back wall of the loft, where the gang worked, opened out into a vast open field. It opened the space even more, let people work in a cool environment, and further added to the “camping” appeal of working under the stars.
We ate until midnight, but it still seemed like it went by too quickly. Thank you, Al, Graham, and Pink! Looking forward to more.